Tenaya Oasi LV Climbing Shoe for Sale, Reviews, Deals and Guides

9.7
out of 10
6 Positive, 0 Mixed & 0 Negative
from 6 Reviews
Retail Price:
$184.95
Used Value:
$110.97
Sale Value:
$166.46

The original Oasi is Tenaya's most aggressive climbing shoe. The Oasi LV Climbing Shoe maintains the same aggressive performance as the original, except Tenaya sized it with a lower volume for climbers with narrower feet. Unlike most aggressive climbing shoes, the Oasi's downturn stays downturned thanks to that blue strap which connects the heel to the arch. Also unique to the Oasi is the dual-strapped hook-and-loop closure that can adjust in length to accommodate wider or narrower feet; what that means for you is that you can expect a solid fit regardless of your foot's shape. The dual-layer midsole keeps this shoe stiff so you can find the pressure you need on the dime-sized edges that make overhung climbs so challenging. A shoe this great deserves bomber rubber, so Tenaya relied on Vibram's XS Grip to ensure the tacky traction you need for climbing your hardest.

 

Sensitivity

Sensitivity

The more sensitive a shoe is, the more information is transferred to the climber about the various shapes and characteristics of the foot holds, providing a more intimate connection between the climber and the rock. This heightened sensitivity allows the climber to better detect even the slightest changes in the terrain, providing enhanced feedback on the size, shape, and texture of the holds, allowing for a more precise and efficient movement.
Patented closure system

Patented closure system

Tenaya's revolutionary closure system ensures a precise, personalized fit that is both quick and easy to adjust. With independent tension control, users can customize their shoes to meet the exact requirements of their foot, without having to waste time on repetitive readjustment. This groundbreaking technology offers effortless convenience and long-lasting comfort, allowing athletes to perform at their highest level.
SXR Dynamics

SXR Dynamics

Technology that enhances the adaptive capabilities of the shoe, allowing for an increased dynamic response to varied rock formations for greater precision, comfort and control. By utilizing advanced cushioning systems and responsive material, the shoe is able to adjust to changing terrain and offer a more customized fit and feel. This technology allows for an improved connection between the foot and the ground, providing a better sense of stability and control.
RBRX Technology

RBRX Technology

Technology that improves the balance of performance and response, allowing for superior performance in a variety of situations. By utilizing the latest advancements in design and engineering, the shoe is able to adapt to a wide range of conditions, providing a tailored experience for the wearer that allows for maximum comfort and efficiency. With improved balance, the shoe is able to handle any terrain and environment, allowing for a greater range of movement and enhanced performance whatever the setting.

Specifications

Brand:
Asymmetrical Curvature:
high
Claimed Weight:
12oz
Closure:
hook-and-loop, Draxtor PAT
Lining:
TXT-treated cotton
Midsole:
double, GI 1.8y TST 150
Profile:
aggressive downturn
Recommended Use:
bouldering, sport climbing
Rubber:
Vibram XS Grip (3.5mm)
Upper Material:
microfiber, [tongue] Lycra

Full Reviews

10
I downsized one whole size from my street shoe and the fit is just right. Best for bouldering or shorter sport climbs, these shoes are downturned and snug. Definitely not for all day comfort (I prefer my muiras for that). I love them for indoor and outdoor bouldering and sport. They edge decently but not as much as testarossas. Sensitive enough for slab and downturned enough for overhang. All around a great shoe!
Elizabeth M., backcountry.com
October 15, 2020
8
If you’ve been following along, I’ve been a fairly solid devotee of Tenaya since the Masai were suggested to me by my awesome gearhead, Emily. I was pretty excited when these were announced since the Tenaya shoes seem to fit me fairly well in the toe area, but I really wanted something more aggressive than the Inti I’d been climbing in. After reaching out to Trango, I went with a size 40 (M7.5). For reference, I wear 41 in street shoes, M8.0 in Adidas Sambas and Nikes, 41 in Scarpa Crux approach shoes, 40.5 in TC Pros (though I can probably work a size 40 comfortably), 39.5 in Futuras, M8.0/40¾ in Masai, M8.0/40¾ in Inti, and M7.5/40 in Iati. I have not tried the Mundaka, Ra, or Tatanka (though I’m told they are like a lace-up Inti so maybe I’ll try those if I need a crack shoe). As expected, these fit great out of the box. It took some finagling to get the straps right. The key is to place the Draxtor logo part where you want in the Velcro area, then tighten the straps. That way it gets dialed in every time. I’™ll echo what Emily said as well – they take a few more seconds to pull on and off, but you get used to that. The neoprene is soft and breathable. The rubber is soft and sticky and great on dimes and slab. The arch is high and snug. My only complaint is that it is still slightly baggy in the heel (but nowhere near as baggy as the Iati were for me). For overhangs and edging and toe hooks these work great, but the minute bagginess compromises heel hooking for me. I’m sure it’s just my feet, and it’s only noticeable to me because I recently switched to So Ill Street LVs that feel custom-made. If I hadn’t tried on the Street LVs, I would have stuck with these until they disintegrated. I’ve climbed plastic and limestone pockets in these, and was able to keep them on even after jamming them into monos. I’ve gone through two pairs since the first pair de-lammed quickly, but they were immediately replaced because of warranty. All in all I’d say these are a solid shoe and the best low volume aggressive shoes from Tenaya that I’ve tried. Definitely more comfortable than La Sportivas, Five Tens, Butoras, and Scarpas (for me anyways). I think the Intis are still my favorite from Tenaya though because of their versatility, though I like the flex in this one’s sole. Don’™t use these on cracks unless you love pain and poor footwork. Lol. And I apologize for the vanity pic but it was the best one I had showing use outside.
Teddy Joe, backcountry.com
October 29, 2019
10
I just demoed this but was highly impressed with my foot precision, especially when doing a foot match/switch. Haven't heal hooked them yet, though. I am a street shoe size 9.0 womens, sometimes a 8.5. The size 7 mens was just a tad big for me, so I would buy the 6.5 mens. Really like the fit straps, as well. It's a little slow to adjust for the on off, but does give you a perfectly dialed fit.
Emily Jenson, backcountry.com
August 27, 2019
10
This is by far the best aggressive shoe I’ve owned. I have a narrow, long, high arched foot and have always had a hard time with aggressive shoes. I wear a women’s 10 in my street shoe and ended up deciding on the 7.5. I really like to downsize my shoes, and these fit like a glove! I onsighted a 5.11b outside the very first time I wore them! No break in needed, they are super versatile with the closure system... wow these are great. I’m in love!
Alyssa K., backcountry.com
April 26, 2019
10
Whoa... These shoes are AMAZING. I have only ever climbed in Tenayas because the whole brand is vegan, and years ago they were much harder to acquire in the United States, but now luckily they are much more accessible! I bought the Oasi LV to take over for my Tenaya Inti outdoor shoes specifically for a trip to the Red in Kentucky. I climbed on them twice in the gym before taking them outside just to be sure they'd feel ok, but from the very first step onto (plastic) rock, they felt perfect. No breaking in necessary! The Oasi LV fits my foot better than any other climbing shoe I have worn. They are snug but not too tight and not baggy anywhere. The heel stays put through all types of terrain. I wear the Oasi LV in a men's 8.5 (women's 9.5) which is also my street shoe size. For comparison, in the Inti I wear a men's 10 (women's 11) and in the Tanta (which is a harder-soled non-aggressive shoe) I wear a men's 9 (women's 10) though those ones are a touch too big... and only used as my gym shoe. I do not wear my climbing shoes really tight after developing extensor tendinitis from overly tight climbing shoes. My shoes are also not super loose, but I find that happy place in the middle where I get performance without pain :) The Oasi LV is a perfect shoe for me as a sport climber and they give me confidence to edge on the tiniest chips and smear on the slipperiest granite. I am so so so happy Tenaya makes a low volume version of an aggressive shoe because it is exactly what I have been waiting for!!!
Cara H., backcountry.com
March 31, 2019
10
I love Tenayas. I never tried the original Oasi but I generally prefer "low volume" shoe models and I jumped on these when they came out. I've owned a few pairs of Tarifas, which I also LOVE, but I wanted a non-lace up shoe. I wore these one time and then they were broken in. They fit my foot as if they were custom molded to fit - no gaps or dead space and no tight pinching areas. I wear them for pretty much everything. I brought them on a recent trip to Potrero Chico and they did well on everything from cracks to slabs to tiny edges and pockets and overhangs and I wore them on multipitches with minimal discomfort. I couldn't ask for anything more in a climbing shoe. I wear women street shoe size 8.5 to 9 (more often a 9) and I own these in [men's] size 6 which is a women's 7, euro size 38. I'm not into downsizing for performance, I think Tenayas just run large. This gives me a perfect snug fit, no pain, still able to easily get the shoes on and off. If you're not used to wearing aggressive shoes, however, you may not need or want to down size this much.
Laura B., backcountry.com
March 8, 2019

Sport & Bouldering Shoes Reviews