La Sportiva Otaki Climbing Shoe - Women's for Sale, Reviews, Deals and Guides

9.7
out of 10
13 Positive, 0 Mixed & 0 Negative
from 13 Reviews
Retail Price:
$76.88
Used Value:
$46.13
Sale Value:
$69.19

The Women's Otaki Climbing Shoe is an updated version of La Sportiva's versatile Katana, upgraded with a downturn for a more aggressive performance on any route or problem. P3 technology applies a Permanent Power Platform that ensures the Otaki's downturn stays downturned. The S-Heel construction optimizes heel hooking and gives a snug fit, while Vibram's XS Grip2 sole sharpens the sides for ideal edging, slicing, and dicing. La Sportiva styled the Otaki's upper with laser-cut leather and microfiber reinforcements to reduce stretch. The LaspoFlex midsole isn't too soft nor too stiff; you could say it's just right.

Specifications

Brand:
Claimed Weight:
6.1 oz
Closure:
hook-and-loop
Last:
slip
Lining:
[front] Pacific
Manufacturer Warranty:
1 year
Midsole:
1.1mm LaspoFlex
Profile:
aggressive downturn
Recommended Use:
climbing
Rubber:
Vibram® XS Grip2™ (4mm)
Upper Material:
leather, microfiber

Full Reviews

10
I’m pretty sure these shoes helped me break the 11a barrier. I got them to have something a little more aggressive than my TC Pros for shorter routes and bouldering. These did not disappoint. Despite the more aggressive fit, they are still comfy for climbing shoes. Once I got them broken in the rubber had fantastic grip and the downturned shape allows me to use my toes for even the smallest holds. I am a street size 10 and I got these in 41.5
Kelly Burnham, backcountry.com
August 31, 2020
10
I'm currently on my third pair. They are so comfortable, aggressive, good for the gym and outside. I just love them so much!
Elena D., backcountry.com
July 12, 2020
10
Otaki in Japanese Samurai slang is the oldest single wire sword: extremely sharp and precise also on small targets. A concept perfectly applicable to climbing: Otaki is a precise, supportive and structured climbing shoe, ideal for climbing in crags, on walls and boulders thanks to features that meet the requirements of today’s modern climbers. The new construction method combines the advantages of the all round snug fit of a slipper to the precision and volume regulation of a Velcro closure shoe. This solution guarantees maximum sensitivity and precision even in torsion: the shoe perfectly follows the movements of the climber eliminating empty volumes and rigid zones. The Innovative S-Heel™ allows to maintain perfect torsion stability accentuating performance and adaptability in heel hooks when bouldering.
Brad Barlage - Ascension Sales, backcountry.com
May 8, 2020
10
Ok I LOVE these shoes. They've been my go-to for the last four years. I just got my second pair resoled and am hoping for the best. They give you sweet precision on placing, they're comfortable enough to wear outside for a multipitch day, the velcro allows you to adjust the tightness, no weird pressure on your ankles.. amazing. I love them. FYI i have bunions and these still fit. My feet are kinda wide and triangular and these still fit! I wear a 7.5 in street shoes, and a 37 or 37.5 in these. Only thing I wish they had slightly more of is extended toe rubber, it's a bit hard to get a really good seat on toe hooks in these. I don't care. I will wear these forever.
eli106017321-0, backcountry.com
February 20, 2020
10
Still breaking them in, but so far, so good! I love the velcro straps and think they're a good all around shoe - the only complaint I have is the heel moves around a bit despite the shoes fitting nicely everywhere else. I got a 40, which was a size down from my street shoe, and they fit nice and snug.
Angela L, backcountry.com
February 12, 2019
10
I love these shoes so much I bought them twice! I use them primarily for climbing in the gym, and outside probably a dozen times. I find them the perfect balance of aggressive and approachable, and they fit my heels really well. They toe in well and gained s good amount of flex over the year I used my first pair. I wear a 8.5 street shoe and wear a 38.5 in these. They take a couple weeks to break in, but then are the perfect size for gym or single pitch climbing.
William Bowen, backcountry.com
January 4, 2019
10
I've finally gotten past the period where your feet feel like they're being tortured and I absolutely love these shoes. They just feel so solid once I put them on. These are my first "aggressive" form climbing shoe. I upgraded to these when my Tarantulas finally broke down. The difference between the rubber is like day and night. I feel super secure toeing tiny chips that I would feel nervous about before. The heel is also very solid. I was debating between the Otaki's and VS Miura's and the Otaki's just seem to fit my foot so much better. I have a very narrow heel but the rest of my foot is medium width. The Miura's felt like they were cutting into my ankle and the top of my foot. Whereas the Otaki's probably have the most comfortable upper I've ever experienced in a shoe. The way its design distributes the pressure across the entire top of the foot so there's no pressure points. I wore a 37.5 in Tarantulas and I got a 37.5 in the Otakis.
Jerami M., backcountry.com
March 21, 2018
10
My Gf had tried la sportiva Solutions and five ten anasazis which both left her feet sore and had awkward space in the shoe. She decided to give these a try and we sized her up and they fit perfectly. Her climbing progressed immediately. Sizing the shoe is important but find the shoes that works with your foot is just as important. if you need help sizing a shoe or determining what shoe you need. contact me and I'd love to help you out.
D Trent Childs, backcountry.com
December 18, 2017
8
I decided to went down 1 full size on these based on other reviews. And it was a good advise! These run a bit large. Besides of that they are great intermediate level shoes
Jonathan Calderon, backcountry.com
November 30, 2017
8
I really wanted to love these, but they have a wide forefront and tend to run large. I would've had to size a half to full size down for them to be wearable on the wall. I've heard nothing but good stuff, and with the right size, I'm sure these 'low volume' shoes would've been perfect for my thin-backed heel. Not much to complain about especially since I didn't actually try 'em out. But compared to Miuras, they definitely run larger.
Julia Rubano, backcountry.com
November 13, 2017
10
I'm a lover of the Miura's, but I was in need of a slightly stiffer shoe with a little more toe and edge. I found that in the Otaki. I have really low volume heels, and the Solution has always left a big air pocket in my heel. The Otaki cups my heels perfectly, giving no loss of performance. Now I can feel really solid on heel hooks without feeling like my entire foot is going to pop out of my shoe. The criss-crossed Velcro allows you to tighten the shoe to your liking, optimizing the glove-like fit. The stiffness that the Permanent Power Platform provides (tongue twister) really optimizes power from your legs on small footholds and edges. I typically wear a size 9 street shoe, and wear a 39 in the Otaki. If you have any further questions about this product I am happy to help! You can call me directly at 801-619-7488, or email me at kansari@backcountry.com.
Karsyn Ansari, backcountry.com
February 2, 2017
10
I have been climbing for a few years now and these are by far the best climbing shoe that I have ever owned. I have been climbing in the evolv electras for about two years now and they are great quality and definitely a good beginner shoe that I would recommend to anyone. Although, I have needed a more aggressive climbing shoe for quite some time now. These shoes have been an absolute dream. The heel and toe in the shoe are curved aggressively enough to enable toe and heel-hooking, as well as elastic enough not to inhibit movement and flex as you climb. For reference: My street shoe size is 8-8.5 and I got a size 7 in the Otakis. They are tight, but this slight discomfort is what creates functionality in a climbing shoe and this is how they are supposed to fit. You will experience the most support in these shoes when there is no extra room in the toe box or heel.
Kiley Matthews, backcountry.com
January 20, 2017
10
I was a big fan of the Miura VS (women's) before I came across these Otakis. My forefoot is on the wider side for a girl, so it's quite difficult for me to find properly sized, tight shoes with no deadspace, that don't also torture my pinky toe. These fit like a dream - so comfortable to wear for an aggressive profile (same last as Miura VS and Solutions), and yet despite the comfort are so powerful at everything - edging, heel hooking, smearing, vertical, overhang, sport, boulder, indoor, outdoor, you name it! I bought these along with a pair of my long-trusted Miuras intending to try out the new model and rotate the two on different climbing days, but a few weeks after the purchase I found myself consistently reaching for the Otakis when I go climbing, and my Miuras were beginning to collect dust. Pros: - P3 power platform + XS Grip 2 rubber (not XS Edge in the Backcountry description) makes this stiff enough on the tiniest edges but sensitive enough to smear on very insecure dishes - Very stable heel hooks - Easy to put on and take off because the step-in is fairly wide - Great colors Cons: - If there is one thing I wish the Otakis had, it would be a more substantial toe-rubber patch for toe-hooking, the pattern on top of the shoe isn't really rubber - appears to be purely for aesthetic purposes My sizing for reference: - Otakis: size EU 34.5 - Street: women's size 6, EU 36 - Miura VS Women's: size 34.5 (latest versions) - Skwama: size 34.5
Evelyn Y., backcountry.com
November 17, 2016

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